Pizzoccheri della Valtellina IGP – 500g

Origin

In the Valtellina, the long alpine valley that runs east from Lake Como towards the Stelvio, buckwheat has been ground into flour for centuries. It grows where wheat struggles, high up and late in the season, and it gave the valley its most recognisable dish: pizzoccheri, short dark ribbons of buckwheat pasta, layered with potatoes, cabbage and mountain cheese and finished with butter and garlic.

Pastificio Moro has been making them in Chiavenna since the 1960s, at the head of the Valchiavenna where the mountains close in on three sides. They work to the IGP specification, which protects both the recipe and the place: a high proportion of buckwheat flour, at least 80%, balanced with a little soft wheat flour for structure, and production confined to the province of Sondrio. The ribbons are cut short and wide, around 7cm long and a few millimetres thick, which is what allows them to hold their own against potatoes and melted cheese rather than disappearing into them.

Tasting notes

Deep grey-brown with flecks of darker husk running through each ribbon. Buckwheat gives a pronounced nutty, faintly earthy flavour with a gentle bitterness underneath, closer to toasted grain than to wheat pasta. The texture is rustic and substantial, with a slight sandiness on the bite that is entirely characteristic. This is not a delicate pasta, and it isn’t meant to be.

Serving suggestions

There is really only one place to begin: pizzoccheri alla Valtellinese. Boil the pasta together with cubed potatoes and roughly chopped savoy cabbage (or chard, depending on the season) in well-salted water. Drain, then layer in a warm dish with plenty of Valtellina Casera or Bitto, cut into thin slices, and grated Grana Padano. Pour over butter that has been melted with whole garlic cloves and a few sage leaves until nut-brown, then toss gently and serve straight away, with black pepper.

Beyond the classic, pizzoccheri take well to anything rich and alpine: melted Taleggio and leeks, a ragù of game, or simply butter, sage and a generous amount of grated cheese. Cooking time is short, around 8 to 10 minutes, and the pasta should be drained while it still has a little resistance.

Buckwheat and mountain cheese want a red with some structure and acidity behind it. A Valtellina Superiore made from Nebbiolo, Sassella or Grumello, is the local answer and still the best one.

Store in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight. Best before end: see pack. Product of Italy.

Protected Geographical Indication (IGP) — Pizzoccheri della Valtellina.